Planking questions

[jimschofield]

Hi Builders,

I'm at the planking stage, so I've a few questions for those who are ahead of the game.

1: Is the side planking positioned 30 mm from the bottom of the sheerstrake ?  The plans show 70 x 22, later cut down to 30 x 22, so is it 40mm or 30 mm?

2: Is the preferred planking schedule, transom first, then sides, first bottom plank, chine plank, then second bottom and finish with outer stem piece ?

3: I have seen others use Gorilla glue for the second bottom, but I was going to use epoxy and filler ?

4: To move around inside when planking, I have to cut out where the waterproof hatchs will be, so I was thinking just keep them above the level of the bunks ? [ the bunk level when upright ! ]

Any and all answers gratefully received.
Jim

[Joe - Sail No 46]

Jim
1. not sure, mine just lined up from where the chine plank would subsequently go
2. yes thats what I did
3. Epoxy thickened, but not very thick. I used a tilling comb, middle on below link to spread epoxy onto the boat planks. Fast and even. Then screwed down. I did drill in lots of vent holes so when I screwed down the second bottom layer from middle to sides all the air and some epoxy escaped through holes. I also rolled on unthickened epoxy to the underside of the planks before placing them on the boat. Hope that makes sense.
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4. Sounds good, I did not do that and spent a lot of time moving around under the boat cleaning up excess epoxy and filleting.

Cheers

joe

[jimschofield]

Thanks Joe,

For positioning the sides, do you mean you lined it up with the center of the chine stringer ?

Jim

[Joe - Sail No 46]

yes, just enough to trim off for the chine planks. Although I did not quite position them high enough on one side and had to fill a small gap with thickened epoxy. At the front 1/3 the planks butt up.

[Deleted]

Hi Jim & 46 (it's seems like Get Smart, agent 86)

Here my modest opinion:

1-In the ark-2 plan the reduction of this stringer is shown from 70mm to 40mm. So I put the plank 30mm from the bottom. 

2-I did in that way too. I think a good fit is achieved between the double bottom and the chine plank.

3-I was in the same place at the same time: why not epoxy!? But I opted for a one-component polyurethane glue that is used a lot to glue wood together because it expands and fills the empty spaces and repels moisture. (similar to the one that Piotr used and I suppose that similar to the Gorilla that you mention) 

4-Same as Joe i didn't do it. To go on to bow of the frame D ' I was looking like a lizard!! But I don't know what kind of hatch i'm going to use so ....better call lizard!!

Any way, all is yet in the blog:  aquilonnoble56.blogspot.com/ , I update it yesterday.

Keep in touch
Cheers

Toti

[captdan]

Dec 5, 2020 23:08:33 GMT jimschofield said:

Hi Builders,

I'm at the planking stage, so I've a few questions for those who are ahead of the game.

1: Is the side planking positioned 30 mm from the bottom of the sheerstrake ?  The plans show 70 x 22, later cut down to 30 x 22, so is it 40mm or 30 mm?

2: Is the preferred planking schedule, transom first, then sides, first bottom plank, chine plank, then second bottom and finish with outer stem piece ?

3: I have seen others use Gorilla glue for the second bottom, but I was going to use epoxy and filler ?

4: To move around inside when planking, I have to cut out where the waterproof hatchs will be, so I was thinking just keep them above the level of the bunks ? [ the bunk level when upright ! ]

Any and all answers gratefully received.
Jim

Hi Jim,

1. I would set the planking at about 20mm from the bottom ( if your hull is still inverted ) of the sheerstrake. That will leave you with enough planking to bevel for the "deck chine" - I used 2 pieces for the sheerstrake - 30mm wide piece closer to the deck and a 40mm wide piece closer to the bilge. The 40mm piece runs through to the stem. The 30mm piece gets trimmed on a gentle angle that ends at Frame E.
( I just finished that area on the weekend I could post a couple of pics on FB Builder site if it would help )
2. Yes, you have it correct
3. I used a thickened epoxy - more runny than when bonding and a notched trowel - as Joe said too ...
4. I cant comment on this one as I built all of that stuff after hull was flipped .....

I hope that helps !

Captdan

[jimschofield]

Much obliged fellas,

As Peter said in a recent post, you have to look several moves ahead. This will turn us all into great chess players !

Jim

[link]

I'll continue this thread from Jim.

I'm working out how best to fit chine planks. I have the side-top panels glued on and it was a fairly straightforward job. The chine panels on the other hand have a significant twist in them so it's difficult to clamp them onto the stringers.

It also seems that I need to go from panels overlapping to butting towards the bow. I'm a bit confused how to achieve this.

I'm thinking of glueing the aft and middle panel on as one section first, joined with butt blocks. Then work on the bow section. I'm assuming I just need to force it to twist. I was thinking of screwing the bottom edge onto the chine stringer and then use clamps to get it to twist on the other end.

How did other builders approach it and is there's an easier ways to do it?

[royyerkes]

Epoxy is considered "stronger" because it penetrates deeper into the wood, and it hardens to a greater degree than gorilla glue. All adhesives have limits as to strength. Use and exposure will give you the information you need as to which one to use. I hired a team from encoreprojects.com.au/ they had great workers!

[Sarah]

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[royyerkes]

Encore Projects is a construction company which delivers high-end architecturally designed residential projects.
Our team has worked on a wide range of projects – domestic, multi-residential, and commercial with more that 35 years of combined industry experience.
encoreprojects.com.au/our-projects/