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Post by Admin on May 18, 2020 12:41:50 GMT
It is not as hard as you may think, creating the correct foil shape with the right laminate, but pay attention creating your rudder skeg correctly. Be ceative if you decide to have transom daggerboads and remember the internal metal L brackets strengthening your mounts so if you hit something at speed, you do NOT pull your Tansom off. The drawings in the plans are optional so you need to make you own decisions if you even want them and if you do, sort you own design. Good luck
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Post by aaronnz on May 24, 2020 0:03:22 GMT
is there flexibility in the rudder design to create a flip up rudder with top pivot a sacrificial wood chock that breaks away if you hit something - have seen it on an aussie cat and very simple design that works incredibly well
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Post by captdan on May 24, 2020 1:11:52 GMT
It is not as hard as you may think, creating the correct foil shape with the right laminate, but pay attention creating your rudder skeg correctly. Be ceative if you decide to have transom daggerboads and remember the internal metal L brackets strengthening your mounts so if you hit something at speed, you do NOT pull your Tansom off. The drawings in the plans are optional so you need to make you own decisions if you even want them and if you do, sort you own design. Good luck I am curious about the daggerboard design - does anyone have suggestions / plans on a design? Also, I am thinking about the above comment about "hitting something at speed and not pulling your transom off" Since the daggers are going to be fitted fairly close to the rudder ( which is a fixed design) wouldnt there be a concern of whatever it is that you hit, it could be hitting your rudder at the same time and have the same effect of damaging the transom. I have saw some daggerboards that are fitted with a hinge at the top. If something is hit, it would swing up. Captdan
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Post by Admin on May 24, 2020 1:51:45 GMT
is there flexibility in the rudder design to create a flip up rudder with top pivot a sacrificial wood chock that breaks away if you hit something - have seen it on an aussie cat and very simple design that works incredibly well NO the rudder design is set on the plan and must be followed exactly....it is VERY important as reliable steering is important...you must buy the 5.80 Class stainless steel gudgeons and pintles..that are all manufactued to exacting standards 50 sets at a time saving money and very strong. That way we know the rudders are all the same and should not fail. REMEMBER the Cat design had exposed Rudders, and same too twin rudder design yachts, all very vulnerable to UFO's. The Globe 580 has one inline rudder so hopefully the keel will deflect most UFO's first and even the small rudder skeg may help. A kick up system is not needed on the 5.80 ..Thnx
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Post by Admin on May 24, 2020 2:29:04 GMT
It is not as hard as you may think, creating the correct foil shape with the right laminate, but pay attention creating your rudder skeg correctly. Be ceative if you decide to have transom daggerboads and remember the internal metal L brackets strengthening your mounts so if you hit something at speed, you do NOT pull your Tansom off. The drawings in the plans are optional so you need to make you own decisions if you even want them and if you do, sort you own design. Good luck I am curious about the daggerboard design - does anyone have suggestions / plans on a design? Also, I am thinking about the above comment about "hitting something at speed and not pulling your transom off" Since the daggers are going to be fitted fairly close to the rudder ( which is a fixed design) wouldnt there be a concern of whatever it is that you hit, it could be hitting your rudder at the same time and have the same effect of damaging the transom. I have saw some daggerboards that are fitted with a hinge at the top. If something is hit, it would swing up. Captdan I am sure some 5.80 guys/Girls will share designs later....they are optional and all design, build aspects open..BUT..on the 5.80 Plans there is a drawing that shows a sample of what you can do..and it shows Metal L shape backing plates for a suggested lifting case....you should also put extra Glass on the transome in way of the mounts...you can research some designs on the SETKA builds..I have seen some KICKUP boards if they hit something...the Main Rudder is well protected behind the inline Keel and is secured on the gudgeons and pintles..so a different story...so enjoy the research on foil shapes, mounting options and how best to use them on the water...it is all Part of the 5.80 fun..
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Post by captdan on Oct 5, 2020 16:18:30 GMT
"but pay attention creating your rudder skeg correctly. Be ceative if you decide to have transom daggerboads and remember the internal metal L brackets strengthening your mounts so if you hit something at speed, you do NOT pull your Tansom off."
I am curious about the rudder skeg on Trekka II. I didnt see that being constructed in the blog yet. I am obviously wanting to construct the skeg correctly but I dont really have a full picture in my head about what this is going to look like when being constructed or finished. There is a detail in the Plans that shows some dimensions but I'm not 100% sure at this moment. Also, I think I missed the metal L brackets that were mentioned above .....
Thanks, Captdan
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Post by danturner on Nov 27, 2020 7:42:09 GMT
Is there some more detail anywhere at this point of time in relation to the rudder construction process? I can see dimensions in ark2 file and the trekka blog touches on it briefly but was just wondering if there was any other info out there anywhere that anyone is aware of? Cheers
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Post by Daniel on Dec 3, 2020 15:40:51 GMT
Has all the attrition in the Vendee Globe got anyone else thinking about daggerboard design? I'm considering a few things to prevent catastrophic damage if there's an impact: Keeping through bolts into the hull high above waterline to allow repairs underway and minimize any water ingress if damaged. May include building the life raft nook to allow more bolts through into the cockpit instead of into locker. Many designs I've seen have the foil sliding up through a housing, which could be a problem if the foil is damaged. Maybe the foil top should keep the foil profile and secure with pins to allow the foil to slide out the bottom of the housing if necessary. Maybe a flip up foil.
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Post by peterbrumby on Dec 3, 2020 16:00:10 GMT
Hi Daniel
Yes worth looking at but I doubt we will be going any where near the speeds they are doing, so perhaps to consequence of impact will be significantly less.
Well unless you catch that wave just right!
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martellmarine
Junior Member
Husband & wife team building boat #71.
Posts: 61
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Post by martellmarine on Dec 3, 2020 17:10:34 GMT
Has all the attrition in the Vendee Globe got anyone else thinking about daggerboard design? I'm considering a few things to prevent catastrophic damage if there's an impact:... Maybe a flip up foil.This is where I will concentrate my efforts. Cheers.
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Post by captdan on Dec 3, 2020 18:31:39 GMT
Here is a plug for the great work that B&B Yachts does on their engineering etc. ...... The link below is a review of a Core Sound 17 and a couple of minutes into the video they start demonstrating a kick up auxiliary rudder with a trim tab wind vane set up. It provokes some thought as to how a kick up might be designed / fitted on to a 580 ..... www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSvRVzZYdVQ&t=401sCheers, Captdan
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Post by luckystrike on Jan 19, 2021 12:18:04 GMT
Has all the attrition in the Vendee Globe got anyone else thinking about daggerboard design? ... Hey guys,
calm down, the rudder design is ok!
The mentioned daggerboards are allowed at the stern only! So they cannot be used as on the Mini650, where they work together with a canting keel.
Here on the Classglobe 580 the daggers are only lousy crutches to compensate for the too far forward located keel when sailing with the wind astern and down the waves. This keel position works generally fine in small boats overall courses and winds because it allows a good wheight distribution. But for surfing down the waves the forward keel is no good idea.
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Post by Daniel on Jan 19, 2021 20:40:15 GMT
Has all the attrition in the Vendee Globe got anyone else thinking about daggerboard design? ... Hey guys,
calm down, the rudder design is ok!
The mentioned daggerboards are allowed at the stern only! So they cannot be used as on the Mini650, where they work together with a canting keel.
Here on the Classglobe 580 the daggers are only lousy crutches to compensate for the too far forward located keel when sailing with the wind astern and down the waves. This keel position works generally fine in small boats overall courses and winds because it allows a good wheight distribution. But for surfing down the waves the forward keel is no good idea.
Troll much? The Trekka blog post of 13 Jan 2021 shows a simple solution for protecting daggerboards from impact. Likely to be adopted on many a 5.80.
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