martellmarine
Junior Member
Husband & wife team building boat #71.
Posts: 61
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Post by martellmarine on Jun 14, 2020 0:17:41 GMT
WOW!...THANKS!! Martell Marine above...this is the best description ad process I have seen on the best way to do KEEL things and I really like the idea of the GLASS tubes for keel bolt holes....I think this should be the absolute best option for all and will recommend it as a standard proceedure....first read of this it could all sound complicated..read it three or four times and it is just perfect and really quite simple and failsafe...well done and THANKS!!!!  Here it is.... My approach would be to take measurements of the centreline rocker before glassing, make a template of the rocker and take it and the flange plate to a fabricator who could roll the shape into the plate. Meanwhile I would have drilled oversized holes through the hull and floors and glued in fibreglass tubes with an internal diameter 1mm bigger than the keel bolts. I would then temporarily screw the shaped plate in position and mark from the inside of the hull the hole positions. Remove the plate and drill keel bolt holes. I would double check the rocker shape in the top of the fin using the template and the flange, make any adjustment for fit and then send it to the fabricators for welding with clear instructions on flange position and squareness on top of the other requirements needed for registration. Meanwhile I would fibreglass the bottom of the hull ensuring there is a proper overlap of the hull glass and the ends of the keel bolt tubes for waterproofing purposes.
During the fairing process I would be using the template as a guide to see what was happening in the keel flange area...
When it came time to fit the keel, assuming I have the boat suspended and the keel set up underneath, I would lower the hull onto the flange and check for fit. There will be a lot of heat generated from the welding process and therefore the possibility of a slight distortion built into the flange. If I was worried that there was an unacceptable difference between hull and flange shape, I would tape the top of the flange with packaging tape, apply a little mould release wax, mix and apply a structural bog to the flange and lower the pre prepared hull onto the plate creating a well fitted mating pad. Once cured, lift the hull, detail the new mating surface if required and clean off the top of the keel.
Should be ready to go then!
I would just like to add for clarity that if needed, the structural bog mating pad becomes a permanent part of the hull in the area of the flange. |
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Post by Admin on Jun 14, 2020 0:28:03 GMT
I modelled one too. Except I used a NACA 0012-64 foil shape as the basis. Same principle dimensions. Same weight. Slightly different distribution of volume +/- 4mm difference in shape. Just for fun! :0 ..all very cool so remember the diference between Class Registation and then later at some point Class Certification...with the Registration you send all the data with bulb and keel weights etc and we assume the standard designed bulb shape is used, but when we Certify the keel and bulb we use a bulb shape template to check it is correct shape... if not it will eed to be rectified ...all the best... |
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Post by captdan on Jun 14, 2020 2:50:39 GMT
Martellmarine, I like your procedure as well ! I especially like the way in which you will be sealing up the bolt holes. This way if there is water intrusion ( which at some point is likely ) the will be no damage to the hull in that area. Its good to run through this process now and we can refine it in our own way with the resources we have at our disposal. Cheers, Captdan My approach would be to take measurements of the centreline rocker before glassing, make a template of the rocker and take it and the flange plate to a fabricator who could roll the shape into the plate. Meanwhile I would have drilled oversized holes through the hull and floors and glued in fibreglass tubes with an internal diameter 1mm bigger than the keel bolts. I would then temporarily screw the shaped plate in position and mark from the inside of the hull the hole positions. Remove the plate and drill keel bolt holes. I would double check the rocker shape in the top of the fin using the template and the flange, make any adjustment for fit and then send it to the fabricators for welding with clear instructions on flange position and squareness on top of the other requirements needed for registration. Meanwhile I would fibreglass the bottom of the hull ensuring there is a proper overlap of the hull glass and the ends of the keel bolt tubes for waterproofing purposes. During the fairing process I would be using the template as a guide to see what was happening in the keel flange area... When it came time to fit the keel, assuming I have the boat suspended and the keel set up underneath, I would lower the hull onto the flange and check for fit. There will be a lot of heat generated from the welding process and therefore the possibility of a slight distortion built into the flange. If I was worried that there was an unacceptable difference between hull and flange shape, I would tape the top of the flange with packaging tape, apply a little mould release wax, mix and apply a structural bog to the flange and lower the pre prepared hull onto the plate creating a well fitted mating pad. Once cured, lift the hull, detail the new mating surface if required and clean off the top of the keel. Should be ready to go then! all of this. literally all of this is what i am now going to do. good to have someone around who clearly knows their shit.
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pete
Junior Member
Posts: 56
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Post by pete on Jun 14, 2020 8:24:15 GMT
Just for my education - this structural bog that you refer to...
When I glassed in the tunnel for the bow thruster in my last boat *(see below for my excuse...), i mixed up some resin and then hacked a folded piece of glass cloth up with a pair of scissors to make a thick mix of fibres and resin to make semi-structural fillets before the actual glass cloth and resin bond between the tunnel and hull. Would something like this be like what you're referring to, or is there a proprietary brand of this bog stuff we should be looking out for?
While you're here MartellMarine... (sorry to OP for hijacking this thread...) I guess we should follow similar oversize-hole-glass-tube-bond-to-outer-glass-skin approach for chainplates/ stem head fitting etc - basically any mounting that is taking serious loads where water may work into the joints through movement and a flange-and-sikaflex type joint isn't enough to prevent water ingress? Most deck hardware as well?
Would using an oversize hole, blanking off the back with a piece of wood covered in tape/mold release wax, ensuring a good bond to the ply surrounding it by using a thin resin to wet out the wood, then adding the bog (so to speak) to fill the oversize hole, then redrilling the bog for the hardware be a satisfactory approach for the smaller, more numerous bits of stuff going through the deck?
I had to replace the deck of Mary Alice cos of water ingress into the plywood under the GRP, so keen to avoid any chance of this if possible...
And sorry to labour the point about keel bolts/weld - of the critical 'boat bits to get right' list (Keep the keel on, the rudder on, the water out and the mast up), the keel is one of the most easily controllable of the 4 to get right i think...
* Mary Alice weighs 13 tons, is 35 feet of old school GRP long keel with an 11' bowsprit on the front... She likes going in a straight line. Going around corners in a modern marina were terrifying. The chances of poking the cranse iron through the topsides of the local racing hero's brand new carbon fibre 'UpYours35' he's parked outside the yacht club window were huge. The bow thruster calmed everyones nerves. Including my insurance company's. Thats my excuse and I'm sticking to it.
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Post by captdan on Jun 14, 2020 11:23:47 GMT
Hey Pete, I had considered the "tabs" as you were calling it for the keel plate. If you were to do this I would consider having small portions ( 4 areas at 50mm long ) of the 15mm plate come up into the 8mm plate and chamfer the 8mm plate in that area. If I sketched this it might make it more clear. My thought was not so much gain more weld on the structure but to actually build in a safety factor. If for some reason the longitudinal welds would fail due to fatigue, the welds that would be made from the top side of the mounting plate would act as a bit of insurance and possibly not allow the keel plate to fall off the mounting plate. I think that this structure is over engineered already - we likely wont have to do this and it has been proven on the 5 meter Setkas already. These conversations are good though .... I'm using Autodesk Fusion 360 for the modelling - free as well - pretty much the same as SW captdan - yeah i think waiting until the hull shape is known is the best option in terms of the 8mm plate. I'm going to try to limit the damage i will do to my wallet if i screw up any work by trying to get the plate drilled without any other work being done to the steel. i.e. before it is welded to the 15mm keel plate itself - so i only have to replace the 8mm plate when i get it wrong...
In the same vein as you, I've been thinking about the welds too - 8mm to 15mm is waaaay beyond my skill level, and the distortion will be a thing for a pro to deal with for sure. I've been toying with the idea of tabbing the keel plate to add extra weld. You can get about 30-50% more depending on the size of the tabs. The tabs would need to be chamfered in the usual way, then root pass, fill and cap etc then ground down to flush. Then the fillet welds as per the original design can be done. This way you gain a mechanical advantage from the cantilever (albeit 8mm deep...) and a lot more weldment.
I've sketched it in exaggerated form - hopefully the image attaches correctly...
Caveat - I'm just a hobbyist, so this may have a bunch of issues i'm not aware of - happy to be corrected by an expert!
and btw - this is onshape i'm using. I use SW in the day job, so onshape is basically identical, but free if you don't mind not owning the drawings... Which for my lash-ups is fine if it saves me the £3k license fee!
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martellmarine
Junior Member
Husband & wife team building boat #71.
Posts: 61
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Post by martellmarine on Jun 14, 2020 18:24:32 GMT
When I glassed in the tunnel for the bow thruster in my last boat *(see below for my excuse...), i mixed up some resin and then hacked a folded piece of glass cloth up with a pair of scissors to make a thick mix of fibres and resin to make semi-structural fillets before the actual glass cloth and resin bond between the tunnel and hull. Would something like this be like what you're referring to, or is there a proprietary brand of this bog stuff we should be looking out for?
While you're here MartellMarine... (sorry to OP for hijacking this thread...) I guess we should follow similar oversize-hole-glass-tube-bond-to-outer-glass-skin approach for chainplates/ stem head fitting etc - basically any mounting that is taking serious loads where water may work into the joints through movement and a flange-and-sikaflex type joint isn't enough to prevent water ingress? Most deck hardware as well?
Would using an oversize hole, blanking off the back with a piece of wood covered in tape/mold release wax, ensuring a good bond to the ply surrounding it by using a thin resin to wet out the wood, then adding the bog (so to speak) to fill the oversize hole, then redrilling the bog for the hardware be a satisfactory approach for the smaller, more numerous bits of stuff going through the deck?
I had to replace the deck of Mary Alice cos of water ingress into the plywood under the GRP, so keen to avoid any chance of this if possible...
And sorry to labour the point about keel bolts/weld - of the critical 'boat bits to get right' list (Keep the keel on, the rudder on, the water out and the mast up), the keel is one of the most easily controllable of the 4 to get right i think... What I am referring to as structural bog comes from using the West System brand of extenders/powders. Their glue powder is called 403/413 Microfibre Blend and their general purpose filling powder is called 411 Filleting Blend. Mixing a 50/50 of the two will give you something that is not as hard and ridged as the 403 or as soft as the 411. Mixed to a peanut butter consistency in this case. The idea with the tubes for the keel bolts is to 1. keep water ingress out, 2. help a little with the compression loading, crushing of the floors, 3. make it easier to clean sealant out of the holes using a drill bit or rasp when inspecting keel bolts or installing/uninstalling the keel. Because of continuous submersion these through hull holes can be a great place for water ingress if not well sealed. With above waterline holes I do not think the tubes are necessary, however a strict sealing regime, something similar to what you have mentioned is! The best overview of hardware bonding on a wood composite boat that I know of is explained in the book "The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction." Chapter 14 deals with hardware bonding. Here is a download link. This has fantastic information directly related to building a plywood/epoxy boat. |
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pete
Junior Member
Posts: 56
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Post by pete on Jun 14, 2020 20:53:52 GMT
@martellmarine - very useful advice, thanks for all this. Oddly I came across the Gougeon Bros book at the end of last week for the first time, now I will concentrate on its contents in some detail! While we're talking about keels, are stainless steel keel bolts the best option for the steel keel structure (especially one that has been galvanised) on the mini?
Reason i ask is that on Mary Alice i needed to replace the rudder gudgeon which was a massive galv steel affair and it had been bolted through the 'deadwood' (actually a GRP hull, but same place). When I drew the bolts one was slightly corroded, and the other was eaten about 50% through its diameter.
Yep, both those bolts are actually stainless and the same age.
I did a bit of research and put it down to either water getting in, then 'stagnating' - i forget the proper term, but essentially in the absence of oxygen it starts crevice corrosion or something, or some kind of galvanic action between the stainless bolt and galv finish to the gudgeon - whatever was going on - given these bolts were only about 12 years old by this point - must have been pretty fierce.
I replaced them with galv bolts, with the intention of drawing them every couple of years as it was a really easy job (drying out against a quay was simple and cheap with the long keel, I could do all the bolts in a single tide).
Bascially, any advice/opinions/experience from anyone on the keel bolts would be useful! (yup, maybe i'm a bit over paranoid about the keel, but making a mistake here could literally be the difference between great sailing and swimming home..)
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Post by captdan on Jun 14, 2020 21:39:40 GMT
When I glassed in the tunnel for the bow thruster in my last boat *(see below for my excuse...), i mixed up some resin and then hacked a folded piece of glass cloth up with a pair of scissors to make a thick mix of fibres and resin to make semi-structural fillets before the actual glass cloth and resin bond between the tunnel and hull. Would something like this be like what you're referring to, or is there a proprietary brand of this bog stuff we should be looking out for?
While you're here MartellMarine... (sorry to OP for hijacking this thread...) I guess we should follow similar oversize-hole-glass-tube-bond-to-outer-glass-skin approach for chainplates/ stem head fitting etc - basically any mounting that is taking serious loads where water may work into the joints through movement and a flange-and-sikaflex type joint isn't enough to prevent water ingress? Most deck hardware as well?
Would using an oversize hole, blanking off the back with a piece of wood covered in tape/mold release wax, ensuring a good bond to the ply surrounding it by using a thin resin to wet out the wood, then adding the bog (so to speak) to fill the oversize hole, then redrilling the bog for the hardware be a satisfactory approach for the smaller, more numerous bits of stuff going through the deck?
I had to replace the deck of Mary Alice cos of water ingress into the plywood under the GRP, so keen to avoid any chance of this if possible...
And sorry to labour the point about keel bolts/weld - of the critical 'boat bits to get right' list (Keep the keel on, the rudder on, the water out and the mast up), the keel is one of the most easily controllable of the 4 to get right i think... What I am referring to as structural bog comes from using the West System brand of extenders/powders. Their glue powder is called 403/413 Microfibre Blend and their general purpose filling powder is called 411 Filleting Blend. Mixing a 50/50 of the two will give you something that is not as hard and ridged as the 403 or as soft as the 411. Mixed to a peanut butter consistency in this case. The idea with the tubes for the keel bolts is to 1. keep water ingress out, 2. help a little with the compression loading, crushing of the floors, 3. make it easier to clean sealant out of the holes using a drill bit or rasp when inspecting keel bolts or installing/uninstalling the keel. Because of continuous submersion these through hull holes can be a great place for water ingress if not well sealed. With above waterline holes I do not think the tubes are necessary, however a strict sealing regime, something similar to what you have mentioned is! The best overview of hardware bonding on a wood composite boat that I know of is explained in the book "The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction." Chapter 14 deals with hardware bonding. Here is a download link. This has fantastic information directly related to building a plywood/epoxy boat. Thanks for all of your wise words here - it really helps. Any thoughts on where we could buy those glass tubes? Captdan |
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Post by captdan on Jun 14, 2020 21:59:49 GMT
@martellmarine - very useful advice, thanks for all this. Oddly I came across the Gougeon Bros book at the end of last week for the first time, now I will concentrate on its contents in some detail! While we're talking about keels, are stainless steel keel bolts the best option for the steel keel structure (especially one that has been galvanised) on the mini?
Reason i ask is that on Mary Alice i needed to replace the rudder gudgeon which was a massive galv steel affair and it had been bolted through the 'deadwood' (actually a GRP hull, but same place). When I drew the bolts one was slightly corroded, and the other was eaten about 50% through its diameter.
Yep, both those bolts are actually stainless and the same age.
I did a bit of research and put it down to either water getting in, then 'stagnating' - i forget the proper term, but essentially in the absence of oxygen it starts crevice corrosion or something, or some kind of galvanic action between the stainless bolt and galv finish to the gudgeon - whatever was going on - given these bolts were only about 12 years old by this point - must have been pretty fierce.
I replaced them with galv bolts, with the intention of drawing them every couple of years as it was a really easy job (drying out against a quay was simple and cheap with the long keel, I could do all the bolts in a single tide).
Bascially, any advice/opinions/experience from anyone on the keel bolts would be useful! (yup, maybe i'm a bit over paranoid about the keel, but making a mistake here could literally be the difference between great sailing and swimming home..)
That is amazing how corroded that bolt is .... In my experience with stainless steel, it all depends on the grade of stainless that is used. An 18-8 will rot away like a galvanized / plated bolt. 304L is better but I believe that in this application we should be using 316L. Also, I would really like Don to approve the use of a countersunk head socket cap screw. The holding strength is the same as a hex head bolt and we get the advantage of the heads being flush on the 8mm plate.  |
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pete
Junior Member
Posts: 56
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Post by pete on Jun 15, 2020 7:57:07 GMT
Yeah great point - I have no idea what those bolts were, probably some kind of unsuitable grade i guess then. Is a grade spec for the mini 580 keel bolts (and also bottom rudder mounts i guess given they will be submerged) on the plan? I had a quick look just now but cannot see anything.
The keel structure is called out as 'steel' - no special spec either due to the overspecced nature of the structure? Weldability is probably the main requirement in terms of properties i guess.
Yeah that 'backup' was a similar thought for me. I like the 50mm tabs idea better than slicing 2 huge slots in the 8mm plate as per my original suggestion as this may make distortion while welding inevitable. The smaller, more spaced out tabs would probably make heat disappation easier to managewith by alternating areas between continuous welds.
While i agree that the 5 metre Setkas are a good test-bed, none are all that old so they haven't had a chance to see all the issues yet, given how recently the earliest one hit the water. For the sake of a slightly more complicated weld process these tabs cost very little extra if you are getting the keel structure waterjet/plasma cut. Even cutting the more complicated tabbed shape out with a grinder and a million cutting discs would probably still only take an afternoon with the right hand tools. Seems like a small price to pay for extra strength that has zero compromise on any underwater areas.
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Post by Admin on Jun 16, 2020 0:49:09 GMT
All good comments above. Human nature is the same the world over. It comes back to our survival instincts. On my BOC Yacht back in 1990 the design called for a 75mm solid aluminium rudder shaft. To the dismay of the designer I made it a 75mm solid Stainless Steel shaft ..but I did hit a whale with it at 12kts ?? but the Aluminium would have been OK?? so after reading all the comments and to try to make people feel comfortable with an UPGRADE so now it is supper strong...and after speaking with an engineer about the welding of 110mm tabs on an 8mm plate, here is a concept scetch we came up with for those who want to do it....The CNC cutting file willl be drawn up to this so 5.80 builders can do as shown and approved on the plan or use this cutting file and process. The process will be simple... 15.5mm wide slots on the centerline of the 8mm Base plate. Then three 110mm long Tabs 8mm high on the 15mm keel fin that slot in!! ..the edges of the 3 fin TABS are ground into a bevel at the top edges and the slot hole on the back of the base plate is also ground down into a bevel. The Hull Rocker curve is aleady cut in the top of the Fin....The fabricator then fits the Base Plate on the 3 tabs and bends it down to fit that cut HULL CURVE o the fin....the hull curve will be the same on all boats with slight glassing ripples only...Then welds in position making sure the base plate is at 90degress to the Fin ... The beveled top edges of the tabs/slots allow welds on the back of the Base Plate. So this is then defined as extra strengthening of the already Over Engineered keel design calculated and drawn by Janusz. It creates another failsafe for the original keel weld even though the length of that and the mateirle involved was way overspec. None the less, REMEMBER good maintinamce of the keel and keel bolts will be critical to boat and your safety. KEEL BOLTS. A 12mm countersunk bolt uses 6mm of the 8mm base plate to bury itself and are not approved. You also need BOLTS- NOT machine screws and most Countersunk 12mm are Set screws or machine screws with threads to the head, unless you use non stainless special engineering bolts, expensive and extremely hard to get?? . You will also have included 40mm x 40mm x 4mm square SS keel bolt washers with your compulsory SS chaiplate set to support the keel floors. Thanks for all the forum comments ..always good to get ideas and opinions ..there are some good one!!  |
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Post by captdan on Jun 16, 2020 1:40:19 GMT
All good comments above. Human nature is the same the world over. It comes back to our survival instincts. On my BOC Yacht back in 1990 the design called for a 75mm solid aluminium rudder shaft. To the dismay of the designer I made it a 75mm solid Stainless Steel shaft ..but I did hit a whale with it at 12kts ?? but the Aluminium would have been OK?? so after reading all the comments and to try to make people feel comfortable with an UPGRADE so now it is supper strong...and after speaking with an engineer about the welding of 110mm tabs on an 8mm plate, here is a concept scetch we came up with for those who want to do it....The CNC cutting file willl be drawn up to this so 5.80 builders can do as shown and approved on the plan or use this cutting file and process. The process will be simple... 15.5mm wide slots on the centerline of the 8mm Base plate. Then three 110mm long Tabs 8mm high on the 15mm keel fin that slot in!! ..the edges of the 3 fin TABS are ground into a bevel at the top edges and the slot hole on the back of the base plate is also ground down into a bevel. The Hull Rocker curve is aleady cut in the top of the Fin....The fabricator then fits the Base Plate on the 3 tabs and bends it down to fit that cut HULL CURVE o the fin....the hull curve will be the same on all boats with slight glassing ripples only...Then welds in position making sure the base plate is at 90degress to the Fin ... The beveled top edges of the tabs/slots allow welds on the back of the Base Plate. So this is then defined as extra strengthening of the already Over Engineered keel design calculated and drawn by Janusz. It creates another failsafe for the original keel weld even though the length of that and the mateirle involved was way overspec. None the less, REMEMBER good maintinamce of the keel and keel bolts will be critical to boat and your safety. KEEL BOLTS. A 12mm countersunk bolt uses 6mm of the 8mm base plate to bury itself and are not approved. You also need BOLTS- NOT machine screws and most Countersunk 12mm are Set screws or machine screws with threads to the head, unless you use non stainless special engineering bolts, expensive and extremely hard to get?? . You will also have included 40mm x 40mm x 4mm square SS keel bolt washers with your compulsory SS chaiplate set to support the keel floors. Thanks for all the forum comments ..always good to get ideas and opinions ..there are some good one!! Don, I like the upgrade ! Also, with the fitting and welding procedure you outlined above, the arc in the 8mm plate after fitting it to the 15mm plate actually provides an element of stability and keeps the 8mm plate from distorting ( bending towards the bulb ) during the welding process. Keel bolts: I hadnt considered the amount of the 8mm plate would be left under the heads of a countersunk head bolt. Good call ! Hex head bolts it is ! |
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Post by craigsailing on Jun 17, 2020 11:16:30 GMT
Hello Don and Globe 5.80 Builders, I have only just picked up on the keel discussions and the T plate welding etc. I too was concerned with possible fatigue with the T plate welds? And had been considering adding through lugs into the 8mm T plate? Since Don's sketch posted I have amended my 3D manufacturing CAD drawings inline with the dimensions suggested where I have also carried out some 3D CAD simulated stress analysis which I share here: Important Note: • Data shown here is provided for discussion purposes only! • Results shown are estimates only, material 316L Stainless steel, loaded forces have been evenly distributed and set @ x3 safety factor. • The author provides no guarantee to the results shown here or that they are a true representation of actual live part performance. • Attention should be drawn to the area’s shown in Red. On review: The exercise demonstrates that the quality of all the welds remains important where the deflection of the loaded assembly is reduced by a factor of x2 with sound welds. I was wondering if a large blend radius should be added to the leading edge-chamfer junction to reduce local fatigue stresses shown?    Final image here shows what the deflection looks like if the T plate did not have the fillet welds to the T plate and relied only on the three lugs plug welded to the top side of the T plate.  |
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pete
Junior Member
Posts: 56
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Post by pete on Jun 18, 2020 12:37:53 GMT
Wow we're going full FE too! nice. This is getting rapidly beyond my area of sensible discussion now but I'll give it a go... Agreed with the radius, basically anywhere on the keel profile, top indicated area, or bulb to trailing edge point as well, although less critical. Even a slight round should help - does the FE demonstrate the effect of even a small 10-20mm radius at these points, I'd guess it makes the localised stresses at this point reduce dramatically?
The intention is to weld the new tabs and also keep the original fillet welds along the exterior 15mm to 8mm join, so I'd guess the deflection should not really change in a meaningful way between the original design and the new one? Its just a backup in case of a weld quality issue in the fillet welds.
Does the model change dramatically with a common grade of mild steel? I'd love to make my keel out of 316 stainless but I'd need to sell my children to do so. I suspect it doesn't make much difference to localised stress locations, but not sure about fatigue as the yield strength may be lower?
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Post by Admin on Jun 27, 2020 13:51:29 GMT
Globe 5.80 Chain plate and Rudder gudgeon SS package: After considering the manufacturing options and the critical nature of Rudder hardware, we have decided that CNC machining those components from Stainless Steel solid Block, rather than welding offers the best quality, reliability and less corrosion risk. Assessing three different suppliers, a decision has been made to use a Chinese engineering company to produce these components. World class engineering at a reasonable price is the result. Price is Fixed on the first 50 units. The first prototype set for checking will be delivered the first week of July. Items in the 5.80 SS Package include: 1. Top Rudder Gudgeon and pintle set, Fully CNC machined from solid 316 Stainless steel stock, including machined lock Bolt drilled and pinned. Globe 5.80 Engraved individual HULL number. 2. Lower Rudder Gudgeon and pintle set, fully CNC machined from solid 316 Stainless steel stock, including machined Lock Bolt drilled and pinned. 3. Stainless steel Official 5.80 Builders engraved plate, ready to be engraved by you with your boat name, launch date and builder. Doubles as cockpit top Rudder Gudgeon backing plate. 4. SS. Cap/Lower (Port and Starboard) Main Chain plates Globe 5.80 engraved. 5. SS. Bow stem-head three-hole chain plate, with welded 80 x 40 x 60mm x3mm @85degees SS Box base for timber bowsprit. Globe 5.80 engraved individual HULL number 6. SS. open 80 x 40 x 60mm x3mm Manufactured TUBE Timber Bow sprit support. (to weld to your tube sprit support) 7. SS Backstay Chain-plates. Two. 8. SS Tiller/Rudder Straps. Globe 5.80 Engraved. Two. 9. SS Inner Forestay Chain-plate. 10. SS Transom Dagger board Backing plate. Raw SS NOT Polished. Four 11. SS Round winch backing plate 110mm. Two 12. SS 40mm x 40mm x 3mm Keel Bolt washers. TEN 13. SS 12mm x 24cm stem foot anti chafe strip. If your Hull/Plan number is 02 to 51, you will have until FRIDAY 31st JULY 2020 to order your 5.80 SS PACK AND pay to receive a 33% discount. You can order from the SAME 5.80 ONLINE SHOP where you purchased your 5.80 Plans from JULY 1st. Once you place your order and confirm the delivery address, Jane will email you the final amount to pay including delivery by DHL/FEDEX to your door. You will have to pay Local taxes. The first production run will be ready for delivery August for plan sets 02-51. Once payment is received, the SS Pack will be dispatched and tracking numbers provided. The second Batch 52-101 will be commissioned in November for delivery early December. Any 52-101 builders who would like to join the first Production run for delivery Mid late August need to notify us before 25th JULY and make order and payment by the end of JULY. The cost of the next batch of 50 sets may increase slightly. The cost for the 5.80 SS Pack ready for export, Not including delivery, is Euro$1274 less 33% discount only if paid before 1st August, you pay EURO $854.    |
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